Tunnel Access Holes

The welds that hold the clutch tube can break after years of use. There are 3 mounts total. Cutting access holes into the tunnel spine is the only way to get to them. While you’re in there, check the fuel line too.

Early cars (ovals): The clutch cable tube runs on the passenger side of the tunnel, not the driver side.

The Three Mounts

Front — Located on a bracket ~8” from the Napoleon’s hat. The bracket has a top section and a bottom section. The bottom of the tube welds to the bottom bracket, which is easy to access once you cut the hole.

Middle — Located just behind the e-brake assembly. You can see it before you cut anything by looking into the tunnel through the e-brake hole. The pro tip still stands: you can also feel for the bracket by inserting a long screwdriver through the shifter hole. The factory weld here is just a single spot weld. Mine was still in good shape, but if yours is broken it’s an easy repair — weld it back. I took a small piece of 12 gauge steel, welded a rectangle to the clutch tube and the floor, and it came out extremely solid.

Rear — Visible and accessible near the shift rod coupler. It’s a spot weld repair. One spot weld is probably sufficient, but you could put two on it if you want the extra insurance.

Cutting the Access Holes

Front hole:

1. Measure 1.5” from the Napoleon’s hat and make a mark.
2. Make a second mark 5.5” from the Napoleon’s hat.
3. Mark the top and bottom width.
4. Draw the rectangle and cut with a 3” cut off wheel.

Middle hole: Confirm the location first by looking through the e-brake hole — you can see the bracket before you cut. Mark and cut the same way as the front.

Fuel Line

While the tunnel is open, check your fuel line. If it needs replacing, now is the time — the hard line runs through the tunnel and the brackets it sits in are right around the clutch cable mounts. Replacing it is straightforward once you can see and access everything.

I replaced mine with 5/16” copper-nickel line. It’s a heavier line and didn’t fit perfectly in the stock brackets, but I was able to bend the brackets enough to hold it. Still a little worried about it — a better approach might be to fabricate new brackets sized for the larger line.

Welding the Panels Back

Welding the access panels back onto the spine is straightforward, but make sure your welder can handle the metal — the spine is thick. The main thing to watch: heat from the weld can pull the panel down. If that happens the spine will have a visible dip in it that’ll show right through paint. Tack in multiple spots and let it cool between passes rather than running a full bead at once.